Of course, happy people live in other places, too, but I liked the title. Although, it is not an unfounded claim. I invite you to check it out for yourself. First of all, Goa is not India. It’s not. We kidnapped Goa from India and we didn’t tell her. And we won’t, until they drive us out with their amazing sense of business and mass tourism. We trust that Mother India is still the mother of the hippie movement and that she will still keep us hippies with credit cards and the bohemian crew, vagabonds and digital nomads with her. While the Southern part has already succumbed to tourists and they like to overestimate themselves, in my north there is a place called Arambol. Former hippie mecca and today home to all of us who occasionally leave the matrix. Or we could simply bypass the winter because it’s nicer to be somewhere on the beach, next to the beach and in flippity-flop slippers.

update December 2022 Well, while all countries were closed to themselves, modern India also discovered Goa again, and now it looks a little different. Of course, the world looks different, and so does Goa. This has always been a favorite Russian destination, the signs and menus were in Russian, but then we didn’t know exactly who was from which country. Now it’s just a flood. No one is to blame, but when there are more people, the prices are higher.

….

I will try to answer the most frequently asked questions. I don’t know how many emails I have written so far, explaining to each individual the basic things about India, and especially about Goa. Goa is a former Portuguese colony, there is a lot to see, visit and feel, but you can read all that in the guides. That’s not why you come to India.

Many are afraid of India, in fact, even those who have been to India are afraid. It is necessary to prepare, both mentally, physically and emotionally. And spiritually. Because it will shake us to the core and break all our carefully complexed, developed and cemented concepts. It is very possible that you will change your opinion about yourself, other cultures, people and see how much Serbia, i.e. the entire Balkans, is a clean and, above all, orderly country.

Yes, yes, feel free to roll your eyes and laugh now.
You will see already.

Before I discovered Arambol, I was a tourist twice, say, in India. For a couple of weeks, everything was more or less pre-booked and organized. I had my own driver and interpreter of local customs and stayed in boutique hotels. Both times, I visited Kerala and the southern part of India. And some of the bigger cities. Ah, Mumbai and New Delhi, just in passing. Those places are unbearable for living and movement. Kerala is beautiful and green, good for traveling as a couple. The first time I went with my first husband. We broke up after that. The second time I went with another husband and had a wedding in Kerala. We parted ways afterwards. Both times I came back from India and my life was completely blown up and turned upside down.

If India is calling you, answer.

However, when my friends invited me to come to Goa for the third time, I scratched my head a little.

– Everything, everything else, except India, my life will turn upside down again.

But, as it happens, “just not India”, took me exactly – to India. When I said, well come on, hit me baby one more time, everything fell into place. Money came to me from known and unknown sources, even that year a friend bought me a plane ticket as a New Year’s gift. Arthur, my Israeli friend and today a famous YouTube filmmaker, offered me his supercool apartment in Arambol. Well, the whole universe conspired just for me to come 🙂

Rasa, a friend whom I haven’t seen for a long time, happened to be in Arambol to be a warm welcoming face for me. I could not have found better people to meet me in Arambol.

So if India calls you, answer.

when is the best time to come?

From November to April, you should pay attention to the weather conditions, the monsoon lasts in the period before and after, with the fact that already in March it is unbearably hot and humid. Also, everything closes in the off-season, and all those cafes and restaurants on the beach disappear. Locals and the bravest remain, who really like when there is no one around and when it rains non-stop and you can’t leave the house for days. There is no distraction, you can just immerse yourself, meditate, do yoga and survive your traumas or engage in writing, translation, some online work. But if you come when it’s the season and when we all settle there, so many creative people in one place can create an unforgettable season. And sometimes not. Every season is different and whenever you come with expectations, Goa knows how to blow your expectations.

For those coming for the first time, it will also break all your concepts. He can shake all our beliefs because India is still a school of life. And when you are not looking for a guru, he will appear. We are all teachers and students of each other here. Someone here will pack you a bunch of instant and takeaway lessons.


how much does a plane ticket cost?

Believe it or not, that’s what I get asked most often, airline tickets can be super affordable – for less than 500 euros (economy class) you can find a return flight. Of course, the return is more favorable. Qatar Airways is the company I mostly fly with. My dear Arabs, we have a love and hate relationship, but they have a good connection and in ten hours I will be from Belgrade to Goa. Belgrade-Doha and immediately Doha-Goa, we don’t go around via Delhi or Mumbai. No, no, we fly straight to Goa, which is 5 and a half hours to Doha and 4 hours to Goa, it’s the fastest and most painless option I’ve found so far. There is also the option of sleeping somewhere and traveling for 3 days, that is also possible. It is possible that it will be more favorable, but it is important for me to reach my destination relatively quickly without much hassle at the airports.

You see what is important to you, i.e. more important.

update December 2022 – What used to be 500-600 euros Qatar Airways hang the cat by the tail. If you find it for 1000 eu, you are lucky. This season, I thought of a different experiment, because Wizz Air flies to the Middle East, Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and from there low-cost Indian companies, and I found a one-way ticket from Budapest for 150 euros. Let’s try, of course that trip lasts 3 days, I go to Budapest, then sleep, then in the morning by Wizz Air to Abu Dhabi for 5-6 hours on the plane, with only one small suitcase, then 6 hours at the airport. You leave one terminal, enter another, so you enter the country of the UAE, eat, drink and fly on. A couple of hours to Bombay, let’s say 3, and then we officially enter India. While he checks your visa, stamps, takes a picture, we all have eyes scan and finger scan, technology lives on, but he stamps your passport and writes something by hand, still 🙂 Mumbai airport is like a big art gallery, you spend a few hours there, eat, drink because it’s 6 hours break and another hour of flight to Goa, Dabolim airport.
They’re opening a new airport in Goa soon, it’s still in the experimental phase, but it’s here.

Instead of an hour’s taxi ride to Arambol, I was greeted by a traffic jam because they haven’t even finished the bridge yet, but that’s almost over. So another 2 hour taxi ride. It was tiring, and it continues, but it wasn’t that bad. Check Wizz Air flights from Belgrade to the Middle East. Otherwise, Qatar Airways and Fly Dubai.

how much money should i bring?

This is usually another question. I mean, really guys, I understand you and I was wondering the same thing, it’s a silly question. Well, as much money, as much music. And it’s not about money at all. Of course, it is the most expensive when you come for 2 weeks. When you come for a few months, then rent a house, apartment, room and the prices are different. While I was hesitating whether to go to India or Bali, how much money I need and whether what I have will be enough. that winter of 2014, my friend Arthur told me: Well, you are a queen here with 300 euros a month!

I believed him too! Because I just needed to go and get there, go through my fears and my limitations – is it even possible to be somewhere for a couple of months. Of course, it can also be with 300 euros. You share an apartment, a house with someone, you eat in local restaurants and you don’t overdo it with parties and shopping. Life there is simply beautiful to forget about all those unnecessary things that we buy to improve our mood.

– I just wake up happy here – says my friend Bane.

That feeling cannot be recounted, because you can not download experience. It has to be experienced, and then we will recognize each other when we meet by the sparkles in our eyes. No one passed through Goa just like that, and especially came to Arambol. Every season when I arrive, I wonder what I’m doing here, but it’s my mind playing tricks on me. We come from another field, from another dimension.

– Gremlins are attacking me. And they come out of me. – Jelena would say.

Sometimes I also hear those who complain about how everything has changed and how it used to be better. Where is that Arambol we remember, or what it was like last year? Look, now they have sidewalks, where the cows have disappeared because they were walking freely on the roads, they will soon start cleaning, everything has become more expensive… and things like that.

– Arambol is always there, only we haven’t come yet – I remind myself and them. Very often when we come back from Europe, we quarrel with India, I resist and why am I here again, that I don’t go to a nicer place, clean the Indian scum again, all kinds of things happen in my head and gremlins attack, until one day I wake up straight. Aligned. I will be present where I am and as if entering some other dimension of existence.

Yes, the magic is in you.

And it’s a bit like Westworld, if you haven’t seen that series, watch it, it’s a good preparation.
Because this is a playground for adults.

The “house” can be rented for 200, 250 to 350 euros per month. It depends on the area, central and close to the beach, and a room with a kitchen can be around 200 eu per month. A nicer house, more spacious, 400-500 euros per month. There is, of course, accommodation and 100 eu per day, but this is the optimal update. If you ride a bike, then you can still go to live, the prices are lower. A scooter costs about 100 euros per month, and a better engine, say 200 per month. All in all, with 600 euros per month, you wouldn’t have worries. It’s warm, you live by the sea.

We withdraw money from ATM cash machines, you can pay with cards somewhere, but there are also exchange offices. They love cash here, so it’s good to have both.

Should I book accommodation in advance?

Yes, I understand, you would like to go on an adventure, but if everything is planned in advance and known.

Well, it doesn’t work that way.
But, come on, let’s try.

It’s good to start with booking something through booking, for example, for a couple of days, and then when you land and your soul follows you, then look for something else. But maybe you are lucky and immediately stumble upon the best possible for you. If you are coming for 2 weeks, make a reservation. Little Indian Village (update closed), Vasu Guest House, Piya Guest House are quite good places, central location and more than decent rooms, super helpful hosts. Everything is close to you and on foot, it’s a short walk to the beach. There are also Lotus Sutra cottages – that’s the most fancy for our environment. And it’s on the beach. Laughing Buddha is a legendary place, cheaply rent a very basic beach house. Or Love Temple, for those who are in the tantra mantra phase. Arambol does not have the quality of accommodation, but if that is important to you, it is better in a place next to it called Mandrem or a little further Ashwem. Even younger Indians say “it is cleaner”, believe it or not. Bangalorians, New Delhi-ans or Mumbai new generation Indians, they are not hippies 🙂 Their beaches are also nicer, and now you’re wondering why I’m in Arambol. Because that place is alive even after 10 p.m. when the restaurants close, because it has some special magic throughout the day. Sometimes we don’t go to the beach for days, but it’s interesting in unexpected places. Because it is a gathering of artists, spirits and vagabonds, it is not a party place. If you want to party, go to Vagator, Anjuna and Morjim. If you want a little more high class, you go to Candolim. There are also good hotels and clubs there.

And that is all India.

update December 2022 – there are offers on Airbnb as well, so book something for a couple of days until you find your way, sometimes it’s easier to pay than to hesitate 🙂
A great place is Palm Grove, an eco resort, there are ten bungalows on the beach and next to it Yab Yam Resort, I know it’s a strange name, and Anahata, beautiful, isn’t it, the heart chakra on the beach. Google it, those nice places are Mandrem and Ashwem.
Arambol got its first major resort, called Nanu.

Visa for India, update December 2022.

It is easily obtained online. We used to have to go to the embassy if we wanted to stay longer, but not anymore. Everything online. I got a visa for 5 years, multiple entries. But for everything, please call the Indian Embassy. They know all the fresh and current information. The Indian Embassy in Belgrade is located in Djordja Stojanovića in Dedinje. You can get all the necessary information from them when you call them or on their website.
You can also write to them, they are wonderful.

And for the online application, you need photos in digital format, like for a passport. You fill in the forms, when you plan your trip, where you land first, the address where you will be accommodated and the phone number. Passport scan. Fill everything in and wait for them to answer. Usually in a day, two, three. It is also paid online, in advance.

You get a visa for a longer period, but in one breath you can stay for a maximum of 90 days, and then you leave the country and come back, and then again for 3 months. It’s a bit silly for them, but come on, I took it as a good thing, just to see another country around or to go to Bali and do a workshop there.
India “pushed” me a little in that direction as well.

How do I get around? Is it crowded like on television?

Rent a scooter, it used to be 300 rs per day, and now if you find one for 400 rp, celebrate, it’s usually 500 rp because it’s the season, it’s crowded. Or try to negotiate for 100 eu per month and manage as you know how. He drives on the other side of the street, a little different than here, but one gets used to everything. It’s chaotic, but it’s nice to ride a motorcycle. Then you are not so hot during the day, you cool down nicely. In the evening, you also need something to wear over it. You can also fulfill your teenage fantasies and drive a royal enfield or an avenger or some unfathomably cool motorcycle model that you can only find in India and only drive without a helmet on Indian roads. Let the wind ruffle your hair.

Another option is on foot, or by taxi or public transportation.
You can also hitchhike.

A taxi will take you to the nearby larger town of Mapusa for 1,000 rs, say, and a bus ticket costs 20 rs. Sometimes it’s an adventure to try public transport.

Transportation from the airport

I know it sounds incredible, but there is order in chaos. That’s what I learned here. There are no better organized airports than Indian airports. There are many employees, but everyone does their part. it looks crowded but their taxi service is the best organized taxi service.

They work 24 hours a day.

You go to the Taxi sign at the exit of the airport, everything is written there, how much it costs to which place. There is a tariff for everything and all taxi drivers comply. It is about 25-30 euros to Arambol. He is not here to charge you a price. You go to the taxi counter, say where you are going and they will give you directions, i.e. your taxi driver will wait for you at the exit. He takes you where you tell him. Addresses and numbers are not a very common thing here, so be prepared for someone to give you a description of your accommodation, behind the church or to the left of the Hindu temple, the third green house, next to the Anant supermarket and things like that. You’ll be fine during the day, but at night it’s not very pleasant because it’s really dark and everything is closed, so you might get scared. Don’t worry, India is one of the safest places, especially for women. Well, now it depends on your karma and what you are afraid of. It is possible that you will go through all your fears.

Be careful what you think. Goa is a magical place. Everything manifests quickly. Think and depending on how much you resist or agree – you will see your thoughts realized during work.
Instant manifestation, so to speak.

Practical things

We don’t drink water from the tap, we buy it. The same goes for ice, so pay attention to where and what you order. The hygiene standards here are NOT at a high level, there is no haccp standard, but restaurant and cafe owners carry their own karma, so they take care of the food they serve. Very often the good places are those run by someone from the Western world.

Dreamland – a place for morning coffee, breakfast and morning gossip. Just kidding, the place where you get all the information, if you need a room, a scooter, where what’s going on, entertainment or anything, ask the people who come there. The location is central, the cafe is small, run by an Italian, so the coffee is good. A little behind was Double Dutch, also a nice place for coffee and breakfast, but now it’s further in the jungle, we go there for brunch on Sundays. Garden of Dreams is just a wonderful place, a garden for coffee, tea, smoothies, juice, breakfast. You are in a real garden that a dedicated Englishman made for us and designed by his wife, the owner of the Fara brand. What wonderful dresses and materials, just… La Muella, great coffee and super delicious breakfast, too. Arcan Bar is an institution, open from morning to midnight, and breakfast is served all day, masala dosa can always be ordered. Very often with breakfast, you also get a live jam session. Just like that. There are musicians everywhere and they like to practice in cafes. Open Mic is on Mondays at Twice in Nature. From places on the beach, This is It on the cliff side or Laughing Buddha. This season we are going to Namaste, Hangout and the new Play. The international community is large and everyone is here to work and willing to explain and help you.

No problem, we have time.
We are not in a hurry, we get everything done.

The power goes out every now and then, you’ll get used to it. Take your phone and a small flashlight with you. The electricity is the same as here, so we don’t need an adapter, but bring an extension cord, a power bank, everything that you normally need at home.

It is good to get an Indian phone number, then you also have internet. It has an Airtel package for 500 rupees per month, 1.5 GB per day. If you don’t have enough, buy more.

To apply for residence, a copy of the passport and visa is required. Take some photos, passport size, so you have some copies with you. The registration of residence is done by those who let you a room, apartment or house, i.e. the owners themselves. Even if they don’t report you, no big deal.

Wi-fi is not really the best support here, it gets better every year. But that’s why you can connect with nature, with yourself and with other people and entities. Talk to people and ask.

There are small supermarkets on every corner with basic necessities, cosmetics, food, … Don’t expect to have everything in the apartment you rent, you have to invest a little in your own comfort. It was fun for me, it was a challenge to make my home out of everything I could find here – a place where I feel comfortable and good. Develops imagination and practical magic.

Laundry service – there are the same on every corner and they are quite good. It’s done by women, it doesn’t cost much.

It’s safe. Different people on the streets might stop you and offer you all kinds of things, be smart, take it easy, shanti shanti, means slowly and carefully. Dont be stupid, people won’t hurt you.

You will also learn to negotiate with merchants and ways to bargain.

– How much do you want to pay? – they will often ask you when you ask for the price and the seller gives you some crazy number.
– 100 rupees – I go, which is very very low, like 1 euro or dollar.
– oh, my friend, you are killing me… – emotional blackmail or laughter immediately begins.

Basically, you decide how much you’re okay with paying for something and what you feel good about.
Everything else is irrelevant. Is something more expensive or cheaper. You won’t wear those things you buy in Europe, nor you really need them, but maybe they need us to leave something in India.

If you are afraid of animals, what can I tell you, here the animals walk freely for the most part. The famous Goan Dogs are walking along the beach and there are them everywhere, some have owners, but most of them don’t. It won’t hurt you. Cows and bulls also walk alone. There are mosquitoes, you need to spray, and around 5 o’clock we close the windows and doors – then they come for dinner and we escape for the sunset. There are also various other animals, but this is a populated place, monkeys stop by from time to time, if you really go to the jungle you can meet all kinds of things, so be careful what you wear, what kind of shoes you wear. The gecko is a domestic animal here and every house has one. There are snakes, but they are afraid of people. Announce yourself when you’re walking somewhere, there’s a reason why those rattling ankle bracelets are worn. It’s not just for seducing men.

It is warm during the day during the entire season, and there is almost no rain at all during 5 months. But in the evening it cools down just fine, so a scarf or something light over it is enough. Except when riding a motorcycle, it’s also handy to have a hat, a hood, something to wrap yourself around completely.

All that, even if you don’t have it, can be obtained here.
You can find Indian, Nepali things, usually low prices but you can also find “fashion lines” from various very interesting designers. With European prices.

But, have no fear of prices, the Goa fashion police is scarier than the police 🙂

There is a lot to see and buy

Old Goa and the Portuguese part of the capital of Goa, Panjim is a must see. It is a one-day excursion, but it is also possible to stay in one of the smaller hotels in Panjim and be in the city for a change. Panjim is not as busy as Mumbai and Delhi. It is located on the banks of the Mandovi River and that gives it a special charm. It has various art events, the Serendipity festival, galleries and unusual shops.

Most of the buildings in the Latin Quarter have been renovated, so sometimes we have the impression that we are in Portugal. I love that Goa reminds me of Lisbon in those moments, even the houses have numbers and inscriptions on those wonderful tiles that we see in Portugal. Beautiful houses were left by the Portuguese to India, in fact the only beautiful buildings are the traditional heritage Portuguese houses that are everywhere in Goa.

Saturday Night Market is a place where everyone who makes, creates and produces something has their collections on display. Somewhere it is possible to negotiate the prices, somewhere not so much. For some, that market is like a fair, but it’s interesting to see what it has. It’s outdoors, lasts until 2 a.m., has live concerts and DJ performances as an integral part of the program, every Saturday. It is located in Arpora.

All this exists similarly on Wednesdays during the day at the Anjuna flea market, but during the day it is hot for shopping. How to whom.

La Muella – a store that contains beautiful dresses and designer collections of wardrobes, bags, leather goods, jewelry, scarves, … it is at the same time a cafe and a restaurant. There is one shop in Arambol, the cafe is tucked behind, it used to be popular, not so much now, but there is another, even nicer one in Mandrem. With a view of the coconut garden 🙂


Update, it was in Mandrem. Now it is in the same place, a place called Artjuna.
Just as cool.

Yoga, drugs and other occupations

It has whatever you want. Yoga is serious business, make no mistake. If you’re coming to yoga seminars, loosen the bag. In Arambol there is also one of the better schools of Iyengar yoga – the Himalayan Iyengar yoga center. And as a beginner, you can spend 5 days with them as a kind of introduction to Iyengar, it is therapeutic yoga. It starts in the morning at 9 a.m. and lasts 3 hours, every day, for 5 days. It was about 60 euros. It grows, of course, every season.

In other places, you can take a drop-in class, Alpesh Iyengar Yoga or Balu ashtanga.
About 300 rs for one hour. And it’s growing.

There are other much fancier places to practice yoga and take selfies from classes. Because we know what is the most important thing about yoga and meditation – to post a picture on Instagram of you doing yoga or meditating.

Yoga helps us not to have a tight butt, but to get our head out of our ass.
I’m just saying.

Smoking is allowed everywhere, even desirable. Unlike other parts of India, here there is alcohol at every turn. Indians have a hard time tolerating alcohol, I would say, but it is possible to avoid it if you avoid certain places. If retox is something you want, it’s everywhere. Hashish is part of the tradition here, and Goa trance did not originate here without reason, LSD and all other psychedelic experiences are easily available.

Everything is allowed. Be smart.

Sunset – greeting to the sun

Every morning there is something happening on the beach, you can practice yoga, thai chi, run, walk, meditate and even dance. We have the same in the evening hours, ie at sunset. The sunset is important here because all the temporary residents gather on the beach, next to the Love Temple, a circle is formed and everyone who likes the drum as an instrument comes there. It’s called a drum circle.

Next to it, various artists, creatives and small entrepreneurs line up to sell their products, we call it the sunset market. Let’s salute the sun that goes into the sea for that day that was unique and beautiful as it is, because it will never come back.

Then we go to dinner, concert, music, dance.
Or all together.

………

In the continuation I should be writing some food stories, Soulfood in India, of course.
And about places to have fun.
As if it is not enough that we are in Arambol, the madmax city 🙂